Drafting is a technique where two vehicles or objects align in a close group reducing the overall effect of drag due to exploiting the lead object's slipstream. Especially when high speeds are involved, drafting can significantly reduce the paceline's average energy expenditure required to maintain a certain speed and can also slightly reduce the energy expenditure of the lead vehicle or object.
Drafting is used to reduce wind resistance and is seen most commonly in bicycle racing, car racing, and speedskating, though drafting is occasionally used even in cross-country skiing and running. Some forms of triathlon allow drafting. Drafting occurs in swimming as well, both in open-water races (occurring in natural bodies of water) and in traditional races in competition pools. In a competition pool, a swimmer may hug the lane line that separates him/her from a swimmer of whom s/he is abaft, thereby taking advantage of the liquid slipstream in the other swimmer's wake.
BOOK BINDING
MATERIALS:
News print
Thread
Glue
Scissor
Book clamp
Cutter
PROCEDURES:
step 1Prepare your materialsThis is, unfortunately, going to require some materials that you won't be able to find around your house. I have included suggestions for scrounge materials you could possibly switch in, but no guarantees as to durability or looks. I would also highly recommend printing out the entire instructable so that you have it handy-- your hands will be full (and sticky!) enought…
step 2Cut and fold the pagesCut the pages to the proper size, which is the height you want them to be and twice the width So, if I want 8.5 x 5.5 pages, I would use 8.5 x 11 paper (landscape style) Or if I want a 9 x 5 it would be 9 x 10 paper. Then fold them in half "hamburger" style (fold the long edge in half) and collate them into signatures. A "signature" is a small packet of pages ne…
step 3Mark the signatures for bindingMark 1/2" in from the top edge and 3/4" in from the bottom edge. Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips you'll use. In general, three suffices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if you're really worried. Mark them across the spine. (ie, for the number five, at 5, 10, 15 and 20). Then measure the width of your head ma…
step 4Cut the cerf and punch the holesNow, using scissors, snip out little triangles at the head and foot marks. (You're really supposed to saw it with a little hacksaw, but I doubt many people have a handheld hacksaw lying around). Then punch the awl through the edge marks, careful to punch them directly out of the spine and not the page. Thread the needle with waxed thread. (you'll need a lot, but don…
step 5Cut and sew the bindingsThe bindings need to be cut to the thickness of the book (when all signatures are together) plus an inch or so. The first signature you should sew are the first endpages, followed by signature 1 of the book, then the rest. Insert the needle *into* the head and draw all but about 2 inches through. Then go *out* at the first punch you come to and pull it tight. Go *in* …
step 6Sew easy! (says the black kettle)Sew up the next signature in the same way (except you'll be entering at the foot stitch), and then the third. When you're at the bottom of the third (notice the zigzagging back and forth), kettle stitch it to the second. This means to take the needle, put it *under* the thread running between signatures 1 and 2, then put it through the loop that's formed. From now on…
step 7Finishing the signaturesWhen you've sewn all the signatures together, double kettle stitch the final head or foot. Then take the PVA and squirt some onto your finger (or a paintbrush, but you finger works better and it's fun to peel off the glue) then rub it *into* the spine. It is important that some (albeit just a bit of) glue gets in between the signatures and fills in the spine. When this …
step 8Preparing the coversWhile the spine glue is drying, pull out your cover material and measure it. You want: The width of the pages plus 1/4" The height of the pages plus 1/2" (Make these as square* as possible) Make two of these, obviously-- the front cover and back cover. It is important to add the extra space so there's overhang and the cover completely protects the pages. Cut the paper…
step 9Cut 'n' Paste (well, glue anyway)Cut the bookbinding cloth. it needs to be: height of the covers plus 3/4" or so amount of cloth you want on the cover (I like 1.5 to 2") times two plus half an inch (so, for example, (1.5 x 2) = 3 + 1/2 = 3 1/2 inches wide) center the cloth on the covers and spine piece, leaving a gap between them (to measure the gap, it's helpful to close the covers then hold them sti…
step 10Admire!Ta-da! You've created a marvelous thing-- a nicely hand bound book. And you did it all by yourself (with a little help!) You're amazing! Please comment with any questions, or clarifications. I hope that with all the pictures up, it will make the process a lot clearer, and inspire more people to join the ranks of hobby binders.
Drafting is used to reduce wind resistance and is seen most commonly in bicycle racing, car racing, and speedskating, though drafting is occasionally used even in cross-country skiing and running. Some forms of triathlon allow drafting. Drafting occurs in swimming as well, both in open-water races (occurring in natural bodies of water) and in traditional races in competition pools. In a competition pool, a swimmer may hug the lane line that separates him/her from a swimmer of whom s/he is abaft, thereby taking advantage of the liquid slipstream in the other swimmer's wake.
BOOK BINDING
MATERIALS:
News print
Thread
Glue
Scissor
Book clamp
Cutter
PROCEDURES:
step 1Prepare your materialsThis is, unfortunately, going to require some materials that you won't be able to find around your house. I have included suggestions for scrounge materials you could possibly switch in, but no guarantees as to durability or looks. I would also highly recommend printing out the entire instructable so that you have it handy-- your hands will be full (and sticky!) enought…
step 2Cut and fold the pagesCut the pages to the proper size, which is the height you want them to be and twice the width So, if I want 8.5 x 5.5 pages, I would use 8.5 x 11 paper (landscape style) Or if I want a 9 x 5 it would be 9 x 10 paper. Then fold them in half "hamburger" style (fold the long edge in half) and collate them into signatures. A "signature" is a small packet of pages ne…
step 3Mark the signatures for bindingMark 1/2" in from the top edge and 3/4" in from the bottom edge. Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips you'll use. In general, three suffices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if you're really worried. Mark them across the spine. (ie, for the number five, at 5, 10, 15 and 20). Then measure the width of your head ma…
step 4Cut the cerf and punch the holesNow, using scissors, snip out little triangles at the head and foot marks. (You're really supposed to saw it with a little hacksaw, but I doubt many people have a handheld hacksaw lying around). Then punch the awl through the edge marks, careful to punch them directly out of the spine and not the page. Thread the needle with waxed thread. (you'll need a lot, but don…
step 5Cut and sew the bindingsThe bindings need to be cut to the thickness of the book (when all signatures are together) plus an inch or so. The first signature you should sew are the first endpages, followed by signature 1 of the book, then the rest. Insert the needle *into* the head and draw all but about 2 inches through. Then go *out* at the first punch you come to and pull it tight. Go *in* …
step 6Sew easy! (says the black kettle)Sew up the next signature in the same way (except you'll be entering at the foot stitch), and then the third. When you're at the bottom of the third (notice the zigzagging back and forth), kettle stitch it to the second. This means to take the needle, put it *under* the thread running between signatures 1 and 2, then put it through the loop that's formed. From now on…
step 7Finishing the signaturesWhen you've sewn all the signatures together, double kettle stitch the final head or foot. Then take the PVA and squirt some onto your finger (or a paintbrush, but you finger works better and it's fun to peel off the glue) then rub it *into* the spine. It is important that some (albeit just a bit of) glue gets in between the signatures and fills in the spine. When this …
step 8Preparing the coversWhile the spine glue is drying, pull out your cover material and measure it. You want: The width of the pages plus 1/4" The height of the pages plus 1/2" (Make these as square* as possible) Make two of these, obviously-- the front cover and back cover. It is important to add the extra space so there's overhang and the cover completely protects the pages. Cut the paper…
step 9Cut 'n' Paste (well, glue anyway)Cut the bookbinding cloth. it needs to be: height of the covers plus 3/4" or so amount of cloth you want on the cover (I like 1.5 to 2") times two plus half an inch (so, for example, (1.5 x 2) = 3 + 1/2 = 3 1/2 inches wide) center the cloth on the covers and spine piece, leaving a gap between them (to measure the gap, it's helpful to close the covers then hold them sti…
step 10Admire!Ta-da! You've created a marvelous thing-- a nicely hand bound book. And you did it all by yourself (with a little help!) You're amazing! Please comment with any questions, or clarifications. I hope that with all the pictures up, it will make the process a lot clearer, and inspire more people to join the ranks of hobby binders.
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